Since we recently published a basic article on custom-made keyboards and the response was very positive, it seems to be time to get down to business after so much theory. Today we’re going to be talking about the switch lifting process, and we’ll do the stabilizers next week. So let’s start with the switches.
Why do we actually do this?
To generate an even sound field and to have switches that are nice and smooth and also sound richer and fuller! Some switches are also scratchy. And if you use good TX-Springs or Durock etc., that helps too, of course. Also, you can build in the strength of springs you prefer, like I do in 63g for example. Others prefer 45 g. The individual configuration of switches means that everyone can customize them to suit their own preferences. And there are so many different switches that all sound different. One of the reasons for this is that the quality of the material differs, as do the thickness and the different materials used. Some sound bright, others a little darker, others quieter, and whether you want linear or clicky switches is of course up to you.
Note: The term “lube” is a Germanized form of the English word “to lube”, which is an abbreviation for “to lubricate” or “grease”. In the context of mechanical keyboards, “lubing” refers to the targeted application of a special lubricant (lube for short) to the moving parts of a switch, in particular the stem and the spring. This reduces friction, which results in a smoother typing feel and more consistent acoustics.
What do we need?
We obviously need the switches, a switch opener, a fine brush, a stem holder and the Krytox g205 lube that has been mentioned often enough. There are many different switch openers, mine is from Glorious and is a fairly simple model, but it works perfectly. When a switch is disassembled into its individual parts, we have the following components: Top Housing, Stem, Spring and Bottom Housing. The disassembly process begins by placing the switch in the middle of the opener with a little pressure. This opens the housing sideways and the parts can be removed.
The stem is now picked up with the holder. You can also hold it with your fingers, but as it is quite small, it quickly slips out of your hand.
The lube is applied to all four sides of the stem with a fine and even coat. It looks something like this. I have applied a little more so that it is easier to see in the picture.
Note: Less is sometimes more! So approach it carefully first! Too much lube can make the switch muddy or quiet, which means the acoustic consistency is lost.
Due to the manual work, the switches will probably not be lubed exactly the same. And when writing, you will notice acoustic discrepancies if a switch sounds different or quieter. This is extremely annoying. Therefore, proceed calmly and try to carry out the work with even care. The stem is then placed on the spring in the correct alignment, which can be derived from the inside of the top housing. If the stem is positioned incorrectly, the entire part can no longer be closed correctly. The “tongue and groove” principle from the wood sector can be derived here.
Note: If a spring is bent or no longer straight or has kinks, replace it immediately and stop using it!
Bag Lubing
Additionally, the springs should be lubricated. Some people do this meticulously by lubricating each spring individually, but this is not strictly necessary. A simple trick can be used instead. The so-called…
Note: Bag lubing is a method for efficiently lubricating the springs of mechanical keyboard switches. The springs are placed in a plastic bag along with a lubricant, often Krytox 105 oil. The bag is then sealed and shaken. This process evenly distributes the lubricant across the springs, saving time and minimizing lubricant usage.
Advantages of Bag Lubing
- Efficiency: Compared to manual lubrication, bag lubing is faster and requires less precision.
- Cost-effectiveness: Less lubricant is needed, as a small amount is sufficient to treat many springs at once.
- Even distribution: Shaking ensures that the lubricant is evenly applied to all springs.
Procedure
- Prepare the springs: Place all springs in a plastic bag or container.
- Add lubricant: Depending on the number of springs, add 6–40 drops of Krytox 105 oil.
- Seal the bag: Close the bag almost completely, blow in some air, and then fully seal it.
- Shake: Shake the bag for about 30 seconds to several minutes until the lubricant is evenly distributed.
Bag lubing is especially popular for larger quantities of springs and is frequently used by mechanical keyboard enthusiasts to enhance the performance and durability of their switches.
Finishing
To check, hold the switch in one hand in the position shown in the picture. Be careful not to hit your finger/thumb with the contact pins when pressing. This hurts and is not necessary. Therefore, hold the switch from the side and press it together with your hand from above. If it looks like the picture, the assembly is correct. Done and yay! 😉
Yes, I know, it’s a lot of work and really takes practice. Above all, you mustn’t overlube the switches. And yes, if you are lubing 110 switches for a TKL or even a full-size board, you can imagine how long it takes. It can take 2-4 hours, depending on how many you have to do. There are also pre-lubed switches such as Tropical Waters. However, these are so thinly lubed that you will notice this at some point and then want to lube them again yourself. Unless you order from someone who lubes by hand, then of course that’s okay.
Note: In the past, the bottom housing was also lubed in the guide rails in which the stem moves up and down. But you no longer need to do this with today’s switches.
You’ll get it right. Just give it a try! And there is another option if you don’t want to become a greaser. You can also film switches. I’ll show you how to do this in another tutorial later. There are also freaks who have their switches polished. In other words, from the inside with a special paste. A huge effort. Then they are placed in a specially made printing machine and pressed approx. 100,000 times or more. Usually, as far as I know, in sets of 5.
This was done with my MX-Blacks, for example. This gives you an incredibly clean and even typing feel without any scratchy noises or disturbances that can become noticeable during typing. According to the motto “Glide smoothly through the day”. A good example of a switch in its raw state is the MX Black switch. It feels very scratchy. But some even like it. All in all, however, the normal lubrication process is also sufficient. Everyone has their own preferences.
Remember: “With every keystroke, the world becomes a little more digital”
Die Welt der Custom Keyboards schnell erklärt – Man lebt ja nur einmal, tippt aber öfters
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